New thread for my F250

[lafinrat]

Do you ever hear any strange cackling noises fromt he injectors? They are most noticable at idle or low speed. It's hard to explain what the noise sounds like. It's just a weird cackle. My first 7.3 did it horrible. My second one wasn't bad at all. Anyway, the cause is air bubbles in the fuel.

I temporarily installed a piece of clear hose on the inlet side of the frame-mounted fuel pump and saw all kinds of air. So I pulled the tank and replaced all the fuel tubing on the sender with steel line and metal fittings and Irerouted the return tube away from the pickup. That made a huge difference, but I still had some cackle. So I put the clear hose on the return line and saw a lot of air still. On a suggestion I replaced the piece of rubber snap-together hose ont eh frame-mounted pump's inlet witha piece of rubber w/ gear clamps and 90% or more of the air was gone, along with nearly all of the cackle.

Keep in mind all this was like 7 or 8 years ago so I may have missed a thing or two.

[Dave R]

I just read up on this cackle today. It's called the hutch mod or something like that. I actually considered doing it. The only thing I'm going to find an issue with is the need for a prepump filter. I don't know the requirements for it. I see kits sold with 2 micron filters but the parts are cheap and easily obtained other than the filter setup.

I heard of this but didn't get into the details. I thought it was a simple "add a resistor here" mod for some hp gain that wasn't worth the gimmick. Now I'm seeing kits for it listed as "Ford SD fuel tank fix" as if it's a pay for it recall item or something. Sounds like a valid mod to get rid of the air that affects the combustion and parts. They also have the hose replaced with a new one and clamps on the pump in the kits. More research for me to do.

[lafinrat]

I remember that now. I installed a cheap see-through Fram G2 filter in the rubber hose before the lift pump.

[Dave R]

I think I'm just going to go with the ITP setup. It's got a good replacable filter setup in it and looks nicely installed.

Did you ever do anything along the lines of putting a high pressure line across the valley to smooth out 2 cylinders fueling and the idle? I've heard it quiets the engine down and brings #8 and some opposing cylinder up to the rest in pressure. I like the diesel sound but would like to quiet it up some and smooth it out what I can.

The wife drove it the first time today. Not bad but she will surely have issues with tight turns.

I also read up on the JW valve body and the only part swapped is the accumulator body. There's no trick to them other than different orifice sizes and spring pressures. Is that all there is to changing these? Easy to do upside down so I can relax about plates and balls all over the place.

Thanks
Dave

[lafinrat]

I did a fuel system with an Aeromotive regulator and a return off each head to the regulator. Several companies sell kits nowadays. I had Industrial Distributors here in Cheyenne do the lines for me. They were Aeroquip forklift hoses in -6 JIC.

The accumulator VB is the front one it has one 10mm hex nut and a few 8mm hex bolts. Very simple swap. If the gasket tears you can cut it off in front of the main valve body and cut a new gasket along the acc VB and just replace that part to save from dropping the main VB which is a little more work.

[Dave R]

I saw the pics of the VB and was wondering if that one body part was all that was changed. Seems strange that one VB would make all the difference.

I'm not looking to upgrade the fuel return or lines or even bowl delete. I'm talking about a high pressure oil line that crosses ofer the heads in the middle to even out the oil pressure. It's said to increase the oil pressure to the #8 and another injector and smooth out the idle. It seems hit or miss with the trucks. Some notice it, others don't.

I know there's a fuel rail crossover with a small orific bleed to get the air out of the rails and also distribute the fuel better. This isn't what I'm referring to. The one I'm talking about is here http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php/products/KCM_SD_HPX?crn=177&rn=379&action=show_detail&p_rn= 379&discount_price=&discounted_qty=&discounted_qty _in_cart=&b_price=64.95&option_0=0&quantity=1&add_ to_cart=1&prod_rn=379&prod_name=KCM+S.S.+HPX+Line+ %2899-03%29&microtime=0.06912900+1240975410&update_item= &edit_item=&x=48&y=16

You seem to go pretty far with everything you own don't you?

[lafinrat]

I had one of those on the red truck. Industrial made it here local to my specs. I don't think it made any difference.

I used to not be able to leave anything stock. I think I have out grown that.

[MustangCowboy]

I want to do some stuff with my fuel also. I'm not really worried about the noise, just want to get air out. For noise, something you can do too, is run some ashless two stroke oil mixed with the diesel. I do it occasionally. I use about 1 oz per gallon. It helps lube the injectors since the new diesel is pretty hit and miss with having the right additives. I was surprised how much quieter the engine noise got while running it. The injector noise is a lot less. There have been times it threw me off because I was wondering if the truck died at a light. No adverse effects that I have noticed or heard of. Sometimes you will get a whif of your truck and it will smell like a little outboard boat. LOL.

[lafinrat]

My 7.3 was as quiet, or quieter, than any 6.0 PSD after all the air was gone. I was kinda shocked in fact.

If you guys are interested in trying, get a piece of clear vinyl 5/16 or 3/8 hose from an aquarium store, Lowes, Murdochs, etc and a couple clamp. Stick in the primary fuel system somewhere and see if the fuel gets aerated.

[Dave R]

I ordered the filter ands tank mod as well as the crossover tube for the oil line. I've heard it's hit or miss with alot of these 7.3 mods. The fuel tank mod with the big pre-pump filter and the replacement hose to the pump is supposed to get rid of all bubbles. We'll see.

I'm running on a tank with about .75 oz to a gallon of marine grade 2 stroke oil in the fuel. I did notice it quiet down a little and seems to have started idling smoother. I keep thinking it died when I let off the throttle because it's super quiet now at decell.

Once I get all the little irks and bugs worked out of it, I'll be ready to truely "upgrade" the truck a little bit. I just want to make sure it's solid first. I have to swap the injector O-rings and Glow plugs next and I think I'm done with the fixes when I get my Truspeed in the mail, the tank and filter setup and this stuff in.

I went to the welding shop today to see about a drop hitch for it that would handle 10,000#. I may only need up to a 6000# setup but might end up with an enclosed someday so you never know. Main thing I want is adjustability. We're also talking about strengthening my hitch setup from twisting underneath after I put an extended drop hitch on it. It's going to cost me either way. Their 12" drop 5000# hitch put my ball top at 20" from the ground. They said trailers were typically 18" from the ground to be level. I need a bit more towing strength even for the stang on an open trailer.