Brake help/question

[Loadclr]

I just changed the rear pads and driver's side caliper (original was destroyed - long story) on my friends 99 Mustang GT. Got everything back together and the brakes bleed and fluid added. Problem (if it is a problem) is that the pedal doesn't start engaging the brakes until halfway to the floor or a little further. Front brakes are fine and the car stops. E-brake is not working now either. My friend doesn't have a Chiltons or Haynes manual so I didn't have anything to lead me through it. I have the feeling I missed something or didn't do something quite right. Any ideas?

[hotwheels]

Bleed the right rear wheel first then the left rear wheel followed by the right front wheel and the front left wheel last.

Bleed the master cylinder if not already done.

Fill the master cylinder with clean, new DOT 3 brake fluid. Leave a clean shop rag on the master cylinder while bleeding it.

raise and properly support the vehicle.

Position a box-end wrench on the right-rear caliper bleeder valve, then install a clear plastic tube on the bleeder valve nipple. Submerge the other end of the tube in a container partially filled with new, clean brake fluid.

Open the bleeder valve approximately 3 / 4 turn.

Have an assistant sit in the driver-s seat and depress the brake pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.

Close the bleeder valve, THEN have the helper release the brake pedal.

Check the brake master cylinder level and fill it if necessary; the master cylinder should never be allowed to empty of brake fluid. If it does, the master cylinder and brake system must be rebled.

Repeat Steps until no air bubbles appear in the brake fluid emitted from the bleeder tube.

Repeat procedure for left rear wheel followed by the right front wheel and finally the left front wheel.

Whenever service is performed to the Hydraulic Control Unit, a specific procedure must be performed to bleed the system to ensure that no air is trapped in the HCU:

It sounds like the control unit has an air pocket and if you have hand held reader:

Bleed the entire hydraulic system using the same procedure used for a non-ABS system. (Refer to the brake bleeding procedure, earlier in this section.)

Attach the NGS tester to the under dash Data Link Connector (DLC), as though retrieving engine trouble codes.

Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.

Follow the instructions on the scan tool screen. Choose the correct vehicle and model year, then go to the -Diagnostic Data Link- menu item. Choose the ABS module, then -Function Tests- and -Service Bleed.-

The scan tool will instruct you to depress the brake pedal. Ensure that you push hard on the pedal. The pedal must be held down for approximately 5 seconds while the scan tool opens the outlet valves in the HCU. When the outlet valves open, the brake pedal should immediately drop; make sure to depress the brake pedal all the way to the floor. This is VERY important to do!

The scan tool will then prompt you to release the pedal. After the pedal is released, the scan tool will run the ABS hydraulic pump motor for approximately 15 seconds.

Repeat to ensure that all air has been flushed from the HCU. Upon completion, the scan tool will show the -Service Bleed Procedure Completed- message.

Parking brake:

The parking brake system utilizes a self-adjuster mechanism, which is an integral component of the parking brake lever assembly.

Remove the access cover inside the floor console bin.

Position the parking brake handle up at the fourth notch to access the adjuster nut.

The rod is staked to prevent the removal of the nut.

Apply the tension by tightening the parking brake cable adjustment nut until there is no lash in the system with the handle in the lowered position.

Cycle the parking brake control 4 times and adjust as necessary.

Lower the parking brake handle and install the access cover.

Test the parking brake system for proper operation.

[johnisbubba]

I would rebleed the brakes. Always start with the furthest from the master cylinder and work your way in.

[Loadclr]

Thanks guys. I will be rebleeding the system because I did not do it correctly. I've never had to bleed brakes before as I have not had to replace a major component before this one.

[Loadclr]

Just a quick update for everyone. Turns out the issue was a bad caliper. The "new" one she got from Autozone was bad. It had a gasket leaking right about the parking brake spring and couldn't build pressure to operate the brake on that wheel. Not sure how I missed the leak Monday night, but I did. Autozone gave her another caliper without any hassle and that fixed it right up. Rebleed the brakes and the master cylinder. All is right as rain now. Thanks for everyone's help.

[johnisbubba]

word

[hotwheels]

Awesome man.........