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Old 10-28-2007   #1 (permalink)
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track and 60 foot times with suspension???s

well it looks like Im only going to make it to the track with the turbo setup the 1 time I did as winter hit all at once/tracks closed here is what I ended up with..

best pass was launching at 3500rpm NO 2 step.... 60 ft 1.84 12.17 @ 120
I tried the 2step but it built too much boost (6psi) and it just melted the tires

what SHOULD my 60s be?
what can I do to be able to launch with boost??

I know the tires are KILLING me only running 225/50 BFGs but I really want it to HOOK and I know tires are NOT the only thing that makes a car hook.

Im thinking about going to a FULL teamz setup.. front k mem,a-arms, frt coilovers, relocated rear uppers,adj lowers and anti roll bar. with a GOOD tire launching with 6-8 psi is it possible to get into the low to mid 11s???


I have a vid of the pass if it help to actually SEE what the car is doing but it can hit the tires too hard and start to spin or it will launch deasently hard and beging to spin as boost comes on..

I NEED TRACTION HELP!!! lol
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Old 10-28-2007   #2 (permalink)
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if you REALLY want to hook, dont waste your time, just buy slicks
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Old 10-28-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Your MPH shows mid 11 potential easy.

Adjustable uppers are worth it so you can put 5-6 degrees of pinion angle in it. You may also want to lower the rear of the lower arms to raise the PR.

Wore out stock front suspension works as well as anything. A tubular K member will help lighten the front end tho.

The amount of boost you can launch at will depend on track prep. You really need taller tires with more rollout to cut a good 60.

1.8 is not bad. It equates to about a 12.0-12.5 ET. An average 11.5 pass would be in the 1.6 range. Turbo cars generally 60 ft worse than all others.
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Old 10-28-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Good suspension is the way to go. Im running UPR Full race in the rear. It all plays a factor, tires, suspension, tire pressure. Its just dialing it in.
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Old 10-28-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lafinrat View Post
Your MPH shows mid 11 potential easy.

Adjustable uppers are worth it so you can put 5-6 degrees of pinion angle in it. You may also want to lower the rear of the lower arms to raise the PR.

Wore out stock front suspension works as well as anything. A tubular K member will help lighten the front end tho.

The amount of boost you can launch at will depend on track prep. You really need taller tires with more rollout to cut a good 60.

1.8 is not bad. It equates to about a 12.0-12.5 ET. An average 11.5 pass would be in the 1.6 range. Turbo cars generally 60 ft worse than all others.
well what got me was my 60's didnt change from N/A. I pulled mid 13's with 1.8s on same tires. I just expected that to change I guess.

I have 4cyl front springs and 90/10s no sway bar up front.

I allready have adjustable uppers -3*

I know I need a taller/better tire looking at 26in drs and slicks, not sure which yet lol
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Old 10-28-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red89coupe View Post
well what got me was my 60's didnt change from N/A. I pulled mid 13's with 1.8s on same tires. I just expected that to change I guess.

I have 4cyl front springs and 90/10s no sway bar up front.

I allready have adjustable uppers -3*

I know I need a taller/better tire looking at 26in drs and slicks, not sure which yet lol
I'd leave the front alone for now.

Can you stuff a 27 or 28"? Taller is ALWAYS better. You also need more pinion angle.

Do you know what I mean by dropping the rear lower down a couple inches? You can just extend the mounts down with 2" x 1/4" strap and redrill you own holes. You also need to go forward a little bit to keep th pinion angle and wheelbase. Find a point to measure from and drill both sides the same. You can have it checked on a four wheel alignment machine. Thrust line is the angle you wanna be careful of. It never hurts to have the right side a little shorter though, like 1/32 to 1/16".

Doing this will raise the instant center of the rear and also raise the percentage rise (PR) that's what uses all the cars weight to plant the rear end.

I also noticed you mentioned 6-8 psi. That's way too low and will make the car loose and may cause excessive spin. With 8-10 inch wide tires you need 10-12 psi minimum. Tire pressure is based on patch size and the weight on the tire. Adjusting traction with pressure is a last resort.
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Old 10-28-2007   #7 (permalink)
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sorry should have been more clear.. I want to launch with 6-8 psi of boost lol not tire pressure. I usually run 18psi in the DRs.

I know what ya mean thats why I was looking at the relocated uppers .. and even the FMS reloced lowers..

right now I have 27.1 street tires on it. they fit good 255/60/15s

I love the gearing of the taller tire they just dont hook at all. the rear slides out even in 3rd. not at first no as boost hits
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Old 10-28-2007   #8 (permalink)
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I believe Hoosier makes Quick Time Pros in 27". At the track I literally went around the water box and pulled a 1.59 60ft with those tires. I did a light burnout first run of the day and then drove around every other pass the rest of the day. NO hop or burnout whatsoever.

EDIT: That was in my brother Tony's 11.4 all motor car. That car ran 11.4 at 118-119 and I thought that was high MPH for that ET.

Last edited by lafinrat; 10-28-2007 at 06:10 PM..
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Old 10-28-2007   #9 (permalink)
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yeah I seen the QTPs in 27s along with a MT. MT also has a 255/60/15 DR.

I do like the gearing with the bigger tires but I dont car for the big tire look the car has going with them on there lol. I plan on running a close to stock size street tire (for looks) most of the time and run something DOT approved at the track.

looks like there are a few test and tune events left this yr. maybe I can get a set of real tires mounted up, make a few passes and go from there on what I want to do about suspension.
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