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Old 01-08-2012   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

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Originally Posted by chuddleston2003 View Post
Thanks guys I am looking for around 450-500 hp from the engine with the supercharger.

-------- added 1 Minutes and 26 Seconds later --------

Is the bigger the cc the better the breathing for the exhaust. I have seen some with 60cc and some with 80cc. Which ones would be better?
I am pretty sure that will affect your compression ratio. 60cc's higher compression, 80cc's lower. I don't know exactly how much but there are formulas to figure that out. You will need to figure out what compression ratio you want to run and match the pistons to the heads. If I were you, even though 42lb injectors will be enough, I would go ahead and get 60's. Gives you plenty of room to make more power later. Power is very addictive. Make sure you set aside enough money to get it tuned on a dyno. I don't care what parts you put in that motor, if it detonates, it dies. Have you picked out your supercharger yet?
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Old 01-08-2012   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

No I haven't bought the car yet. I am working on saving but the owner doesn't have it for sale now. He had it for sale earlier and I went to school with him so he knows me told me to make him an offer. I will get pics up tomorrow of it it is on the same road as me. I would like to put a Kenne Bell on there or Eaton love the sound of the Eatons on the cobra's.
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Old 01-08-2012   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

Also guys which is better for HP shorty headers or long tube headers, I seen the ones on the car are all rusty?
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Old 01-09-2012   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

http://www.insanemustangs.com/forums...1&d=1326120434
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Old 01-09-2012   #15 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

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Originally Posted by chuddleston2003 View Post
Also guys which is better for HP shorty headers or long tube headers, I seen the ones on the car are all rusty?
Longtubes will make more power. Shorty's may be easier to install
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Old 01-09-2012   #16 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

That is a pic of the car I am working on getting. Car has less than 100k on it with a new 5.0 engine with less than 10k on it. I know get rid of the wing I plan on it.
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Old 01-09-2012   #17 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

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Originally Posted by chuddleston2003 View Post
That is a pic of the car I am working on getting. Car has less than 100k on it with a new 5.0 engine with less than 10k on it. I know get rid of the wing I plan on it.
You mean you don't like the Saleen SR351 wing?!?! I used to have a tire tech that worked for me that had one on his Nissan 200sx. I am not really sure what Steve Saleen was thinking at the time...
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Old 01-09-2012   #18 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

How do I go about trying to figure out what my compression ratio is? Do I take it to a shop or can I run the serial number and see if it tells me.
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Old 01-09-2012   #19 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

its a little bit of math. the cc of the piston and the cc of the head, plus the gasket size etc.

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Old 01-12-2012   #20 (permalink)
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Re: Forging a GT 40 block

First off if your thinking about a positive displacement blower id suggest the Kenne (twin screw) compared to Eaton (roots type). The Kenne is more efficient at same boost levels mainly less heat. Plus no intercooler for either of those... so i'm thinkin you might be around 8-12 psi. As you get higher flowing heads/intake the boost will go down (with same pulleys) but the power/torque will go up (less restriction)

The Stock block is the weak link in that equation so if you are doing a blower you can possibly almost max out the block with the stock stuff. But heads i'd also suggest aluminum. They dissipate heat and drop the compression ratio slightly maybe .25-.5 if all other things are equal i.e pistons, Combustion chamber size, etc. But Something like AFR 185's, TFS twisted wedge, TFS Highports (192's), and Vic jr's are awesome plus you can get bigger CC and drop the compression while keeping the factory slugs!! Rods if they are stock you should be good but forged of course is stronger...

For fuel system id think about converting it to E-85. Cheaper per gallon, higher octane (less chance of detenation) but requires i think 15%-30% more fuel than regular gas
If your going to put a blower on it Id highly suggest ARP hardware on at least rods & mains!! Girdles are a debate that will never end. Some think that they help a motor live longer, some think that they do nothing for strength and just keep things in a nice little pile after the block cracks.

I wouldn't recommend machining out a two bolt main block to use 4 bolt caps. Your removing material from a block that has been proven time and again that the webbing around the crank cracks. Its mostly found just above the crank and usually ends in the lifter valley. But there are three main things that lead to this. Tune, rpm, and power levels.

But either way good luck and nice ride!!!
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